Presenters at Aside 16, 2 June 2018

Katy Hui-Wen Hung 洪惠文

Katy Hui-Wen Hung 洪惠文

As an avid collector of recipes and culinary stories, as well as a passionate advocate of Taiwanese cuisine, my frequent trips back to Taiwan have become a journey through Taipei’s food culture, past and present.

林明燦 Lin Ming-Tsan

林明燦 Lin Ming-Tsan

“I carry the torch to continue my father’s legacy”

全俊逸 Chuan Jun-Yi

全俊逸 Chuan Jun-Yi

The abundant life force brought out by the earth and the sustainable management of land, life, and food by the Bunun tribe.

洪惠文 Katy Hui-Wen Hung

洪惠文 Katy Hui-Wen Hung

 洪惠文 Katy Hui-Wen Hung 

我不僅是一個台灣料理熱情的提倡者,也對食譜和料理故事相當狂熱,頻繁的返台旅程變成了台灣食物文化歷史巡禮。出生並於台灣長大,1988便移居英國,讓我對料理的追尋之路添上多國的色彩。

我與跟我同一代的很多台灣人一樣,直到最近幾年才開始理解這個島嶼的獨特與美好。我在台灣的戒嚴時期(直到1987年解嚴)下長大,那是一個統治階層認為台灣各項文化,包括飲食傳統都相較中國大陸更低劣的時代。台灣的食物源於街頭,而不是喜宴大餐。直到最近才有對小吃和一些料理,像是牛肉麵和關東煮(由日本的黑輪轉化而成)的細微差別、歷史等的了解與深究。

我有幸幫忙了一些知名的飲食文學作家們撰寫關於台北的食物,包括Andrea NguyenRobyn Eckhardt,我也曾跟食物歷史學家Rachel Lauden、人類學家Eugene N. Anderson和客家料理書作家Linda Lau Anusasananan,再加上許許多多台北知名的餐廳交換想法和所知。另外與「Penang food heritage cookbook」料理書作家Ong Jin Teong討論了關於一些小吃和甜點的源頭與由來,他也在另一書「Nonya Heritage Kitchen – Origins, Utensils, Recipes」 (於2016出版於新加坡)引用了我的話,而這些連結讓我有能力拓展我對台北食物的知識和資源。現在我有了這些,我渴望將他們編織在一起成為一幅美麗的畫。


As an avid collector of recipes and culinary stories, as well as a passionate advocate of Taiwanese cuisine, my frequent trips back to Taiwan have become a journey through Taipei’s food culture, past and present. Being Taipei-born and -raised, yet a resident of the UK since 1988, I bring a multinational perspective to my quest.

Like many Taiwanese of my generation, I’ve only come to appreciate the island’s cultural uniqueness in recent years. I grew up during martial law (which lasted until 1987), a period when the authorities viewed many aspects of Taiwanese culture, including culinary traditions, as less worthy than those of mainland China. Taiwanese food belonged to the street, not the banquet table. Until recently, few understood the nuances and history of snacks and dishes like beef noodle soup and olen (a local twist on Japanese oden).

I’ve had the privilege of assisting a number of well-known food writers on their Taipei food assignments, including Andrea Nguyen and Robyn Eckhardt . I’ve exchanged ideas and knowledge with food historian Rachel Lauden, anthropologist Eugene N. Anderson, Hakka cookbook author Linda Lau Anusasananan, plus several notable restaurateurs in Taipei. I’ve also discussed the origins of certain snacks and desserts with Penang food heritage cookbook writer Ong Jin Teong, who quotes me in his book Nonya Heritage Kitchen – Origins, Utensils, Recipes (published spring 2016 by Landmark Books of Singapore). My extensive network enhances my considerable knowledge and resources regarding food in Taipei. Now I hold all these strands in my hands, I yearn to weave them together into a complete picture.

林明燦 Lin Ming-Tsan

林明燦 Lin Ming-Tsan

林明燦 Lin Ming-Tsan

林明燦總舖大師,是電影《總舖師:移動大廚》的許多顧問之一。但其實《總舖師:移動大廚》的故事背景是敘述林明燦的生平。父親為林添盛 (1934-2010),台灣戰後數一數二的總舖師之一,也被稱之為台灣國寶。

林師傅相信他是全台灣唯一一位仍然執著於傳統辦桌習俗的大廚,也號稱「傳承古早味大師」。他時常在YAMICOOK食藝廚房教課,傳授他累積多年的知識與經驗。林師傅說:「我在延續我父親的事蹟。」

辦桌,並不只是關於食物,而是來賓親身的一種經驗。台式辦桌在台灣還常常出現在婚宴、各大小神明生日還有其他社交場面。場地呢?路邊、私人土地或是公共場所都可以的。

電影《總舖師:移動大廚》(英語:Zone Pro Site),是一部於2013年上映的台灣喜劇類電影,由夏于喬、林美秀、楊祐寧領銜主演,陳玉勳執導,李烈、葉如芬監製。

「總舖師 」是什麼?辦桌,一種台灣民俗筵席活動,是外燴的一種,著名的台菜料理,許多都源自於辦桌文化。台灣辦桌活動的歷史,可以追溯到清朝統治時期。在福建、廣州傳統稱作「辦酒」或「到會」的宴客文化隨著移民來到台灣。在臺灣早期漢人宴客時,除了自家人張羅酒菜外,還邀請廚師到家中料理筵席菜餚,早期只有富有人家,有資本可以設置酒席宴請客人。該酒席具備的集體動員、開放參與的特質,主要是表現於餐宴和祭祀。在辦桌活動中,總舖師負責決定與主導整個宴會的菜色與流程,時常只有帶著自家的廚藝工具並根據辦桌的主題以手上的食品材料大幅發揮。總舖師通常遇到最大的難題就是要端上大家吃了都會喜歡的菜色。如果菜單能征服最挑惕的來賓,總譜師就能成為大師級人物。

Lin Ming-tsan, a leading “zone pro site” (總舖師 Bando master chef) and one of the culinarians who helped with the making of movie “The Moveable Feast” (2013). Actually, “The Moveable Feast” was a story based on Lin Ming-tsan own life. He is the son of Lin Tian-Sheng 林添盛 (1934-2010), perhaps the most famous banquet chef in postwar Taiwan, and a man dubbed “a national treasure.”

Lin believes he is the only banquet chef in the country who still arranges and cooks in the old bando manner, and is acknowledged as “A Master Who Recreates Old Favors“. He shares his knowledge and experience in “Yamicook” Kitchen on a regular basis.

“I carry the torch to continue my father’s legacy”

– Lin says.

_________________

Bando – (abstract info from Wikipedia)
Zone Pro Site – (abstract info from Wikipedia)
The Moveable Feast” – a successful Taiwanese film

Bando, literally meaning “to set tables,” is not just about foods, but about a unique experience offered to guests. Taiwan-style catered banquet at wedding ceremonies, celebrations of birthdays of local deities, and other social gatherings is still popular. The settings could be on side streets, private properties, or other public spaces.

Zone Pro Site (總舖師 “Bandoh master chef”), also known as Zone Pro Site: The Moveable Feast, is a 2013 Taiwanese comedy film directed by Chen Yu-hsun, starring Lin Mei-hsiu, Tony Yang and Kimi Hsia.

What is Zone Pro Site? Speaking of Taiwan’s indigenous gastronomic culture, it is best represented by Ban-doh (辦桌), an outdoor banquet. Such an event can be traced back to the agricultural age. At that time restaurants and hotels were few and far between, so wedding receptions and all sorts of feasts usually took place in outdoor spaces or tents. With a couple of simple stoves and long tables as kitchen countertops, every dish was done on the spot. The person in charge of the menu and the procedures was called Zone Pro Site(總舖師),meaning catering chef in Taiwanese. During Ban-doh, Zone Pro Site arrived with nothing but his cooking utensils and he had to show his creativity by coming up with different menus based on the theme of each feast and the ingredients provided. The greatest challenge for Zone Pro Site was, of course, to serve dishes both hosts and guests would fully enjoy. If the food could satisfy the most critical guests, Zone Pro Site would earn respect and become a legendary master chef.

全俊逸 Chuan Jun-Yi

全俊逸 Chuan Jun-Yi

全俊逸 Chuan Jun-Yi

全俊逸 Chuan Jun-Yi

自我介紹:
我叫 全俊逸 布農族名字叫Biung,我是台灣原住民,來自南投縣信義鄉高山族群的布農族。我也是一位牧羊人;在台灣16個原住民族群中,唯獨我們布農族是沒有頭目制。
我熱愛我們的土地,因為土地帶給我們生命,也帶給我們生活中不可獲缺的食材~~

分享內容:
布農族和土地、生命、食材的永續經營及土地所帶出來的豐盛的生命力~

My name is Chuan Jun-Yi, my Bunun Tribe name is Biung. I am Aboriginal Taiwanese, and I am from the mountain Bunun tribes of Xinyi in Nantou County. I am also a shepherd. In all 16 of Taiwan’s aboriginal tribes, we the Bunun tribe are the only tribe without a chieftain.
I love our land, because land brings us life and the food that we need in our existence.

Talking Points:
The abundant life force brought out by the earth and the sustainable management of land, life, and food by the Bunun tribe.